The Grand Canyon Cardigan (Free Crochet Pattern)

 

 

Description of the project

This free pattern gives the instructions to make a super cozy and warm buttoned shrug. So far, I have mostly seen shrugs without any closing system. However, while wearing them, it struck me that they kept opening and sliding off my shoulders while walking, and I felt like making one that would stay on, and that you could also buttoned up until the neck, to keep you warmer.

This shrug was inspired first by the Granny Cocoon Shrug, designed by Maria Valles. You can find the instructions to her version here.

Sizes available

One size fits most.

 

Furniture

- Zeeman Tweed;

- a 7,00mm crochet hook;

- a yarn needle;

- a pair of scissors;

- buttons (the number you are planning to put on your garment, nine in my case).

Gauge

Not so important for this project. Make a swatch of 10x10 cm and see if you like the texture (are you looking for a stiff and thick fabric, thick and high drape, or thin and high drape?).

However, to get a result like mine, your gauge should be:

[3 groups of 3 dc and 3 ch-sp] x 7 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Abbreviations used (US terminology)

ch : chain

ch-sp : chain space (= 1 ch st)

dc : double crochet

sc : single crochet

scbl : single crochet through back loop

sl st : slip stitch

st : stitch

sts : stitches

Make a granny square

Make a granny square that measures approximately 108cm wide:

Ch 4, sl st to form a ring.

Row 1: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc of the row), dc 2 in center of the ring, ch 2 (= to make the first corner of the square), dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain. Do not turn for this row.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc of the row, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 3) in the 1st ch2-sp, *ch 1, (dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) in the coming ch2-sp*, repeat * ... * two more times, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain. Turn your work.

Row 3: ch 3, dc2 in 1st ch1sp you come across, *ch1, (dc3, ch2, dc3) in the corner, ch 1, dc3 in next ch1sp*, repeat * to * 2 more times, ch1, (dc3, ch2, dc3) in the corner, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.

Repeat Row 3 31 more times (= 32 times in total). (or amount of times needed to get a square of approximately

 

Create the armholes

Fold the square in two, right sides facing each other. Insert markers 19 cm from the folded edge (thus not from the corners of the square). Now sew the sides from the marker to the corner, to create the arm openings.

 

Once you have sewn the sides, your project should look like this:

Turn your cardigan right side out, and put the seams facing each other. The project now looks like this:

Crochet the armholes border

Take a crochet 2mm smaller than the one you are using. In my case, I am using the 7,00mm - which means I will be using the 5,00mm for the border.

Insert your hook at the seam of the armholes.

Ch 5.

 

Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in every ch until end = 4 sc, sl st in 2 next sts (around the edge of the armhole). Turn your work around.

 

Scbl in every of the 4 sc you just made, ch 1, turn your work.

Scbl in every of the 4 sc you just made, sl st in 2 next sts of the edge of the armhole.

When you have reached the last stitches of the border of the arm opening, join end and beginning of the ribbed edge by sl st in the back loop of both sc sts (= a slip stitch that goes through the first sc of the end of the border, and through the first sc of the beginning of the border, and progressing so by joining the matching sc). Fasten off, cut the yarn.

Crochet the front border

Once again with a crochet hook 2,00mm smaller than the one you used to crochet the body of the garment (so 5,00mm in my case).

Place markers to locate the place where the buttons will be. You may decide to put only one button, or several ones. In my case, I want a cardigan that I can button up and down, so I will place nine markers.

Attach your yarn to the seam on the right sight on the garment (where you see the white marker on the picture here above, in the middle).

Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 5 ch = 6 sc.

Sl st in next two sts from the edge of the body (the same way we did for the armholes borders, see here above). Turn work.

Scbl in every sc of the border = 6 sc. Ch 1, turn your work, scbl in every sc across = 6 sc. Sl st in next 2 sts of the edge of the body.

Continue the same process until you reach the first marker of the left side (which shows here on the right of the picture, the green marker on the top). At that point, create a buttonhole:

Scbl 2, ch 2, sk 2 sc, scbl 2.

The row after will be:

Scbl in first two sc, sc 2 in ch2sp, scbl in last 2 sc.

Then continue working the simple ribbed edge until you reach the next marker, and create the second buttonhole using the same method.

Close the border like you did when making the armholes borders.

Finitions

Remove the markers. Weave in the ends. Sew the buttons.

 There you go! (Couldn't wait to weave in the ends before posting the pattern, hehe)

 

Thank you for crocheting with Paolina Angelo Crochet Designs!

The Tamale Dress (Free Crochet Pattern)

The Tamale Dress is worked top-down.

First, work front and back separately, join them and continue working in the round until the dress reaches the desired length. The length of this project can be adapted easily, which means you can make a short or a long top, a short or a maxi dress, to taste !

 

***

This pattern is offered for free but you can buy a printable PDF version here.

***

Furniture Crochet 5,00mm 100% (recycled) cotton yarn (153m/100g), approximately 400g for a size M Scissors	Gauge 13 dc x 8 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm.
Abbreviations and stitches used (US terminology) ch : chain ch-sp : chain-space dc : double crochet PM : place a marker RS : right side (= size of the work that is visible to the eye when you are wearing it) sk : skip sl st : slip stitch st : stitch	Notes dc decrease : yo, pull 1 loop through the stitch, yo, pull 1 loop through next st, yo, pull through all 3 loops on the hook. dc increase : dc2 in the same st

Guide of the sizes Paolina Angelo

	34/36 S (cm)	38/40 M (cm)	42/44 L (cm)	46/48 XL (cm)	50/52 XXL (cm)
Breast circumference	82	90	98	106	118
Waist circumference	66	72	80	88	100
Hip circumference	92	98	104	112	122

Actual measurements of the garment

Let's get started! Front part Ch 34. Row 1 : dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in every ch until end of the row. = 31 dc. Row 2 : ch 4 (= 1st dc and ch1), turn your work, sk 1 dc, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st*, repeat * * until 1 st is left, dc in last st. = 31 sts = 15 ch-sp. PM in the central ch-sp (= 8th ch-sp of the row). Row 3 : ch 3, turn, dc in same 1st st (= first dc increase), dc in every dc and every ch-sp until you reach the ch-sp with the marker, ch, sk the ch of that ch-sp, dc in every dc and ch-sp until 1 st is left, dc 2 in last st. = 33 sts. Row 4 : ch 3, turn, dc in same 1st st (= first dc increase), dc in every dc until the ch-sp, ch 1, sk ch of the ch-sp, dc in every dc of the row until 1 st is left, dc 2 in last dc. = 35 sts. Repeat Row 4 9 – 12 – 14 – 17 – 21 more times, until the piece is 41 – 45 – 49 – 53 – 59 cm wide = 53 - 59 - 63 - 69 – 77 sts. DO NOT CUT THE YARN - we will use it to attach back and front parts together. Back part Ch 34. Row 1 : dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in every ch until end of the row. = 31 dc. Row 2 : ch 4 (= 1st dc and ch1), turn your work, sk 1 dc, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st*, repeat * * until 1 st is left, dc in last st. = 31 sts. Row 3 : ch 3, turn, dc in same 1st st (= first dc increase), dc in every dc and ch-sp until 1 st is left, dc 2 in last st. = 33 sts. Repeat Row 3 10 – 13 – 15 – 18 – 22 more times, until the piece is 41 – 45 – 49 – 53 – 59 cm wide = 53 - 59 - 63 - 69 – 77 sts. Cut the yarn, fasten off. Joining front and back part When you finish the last increase row (row 3) adapted to the size you're making, lay both pieces (front and back part) on the table, RS facing you. Your yarn comes front the left bottom extremity of the front part – don't cut it. Sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain of the last row (on the right extremity of back part). You have just attached the two parts together. Ch 3, turn, dc in every dc across, until you reach the ch-sp, ch 1, sk ch of the ch-sp, dc in every dc across. When you reach the end of the row (= other extremity of the front part), attach the two pieces together again like so : don't work last dc, ch 3 (counts as last dc of the row), sl st in 3rd ch of the beginning ch of previous row – at the same time, with the same sl st, take the 1st st of extremity of row of other part. Shaping the neck You shape the neck before working further on the dress, because the next step requires you to try the dress on to know at which height you should start decreasing for the waist. With RS facing you, attach your yarn to the right extremity of 1st row of back part. Ch 1, sc in 1st st and PM in that 1st sc you just made, sc in every st across. When you reach the end of the row, ch 5 loosely. Take the front part, still RS facing you, and sc in every st across until end of row. Then ch 5 again, and join in a circle by sl st in 1st sc with the marker. DO NOT TURN YOUR WORK. Ch 1, sc in 1st st (still the one with the marker), sc in every sc across, sl st in sc with the marker. Cut your yarn and fasten off. Shaping the waist Take back your work where you left it after joining front and back part. You just finished a row. Row 5 : ch 3, turn, dc in every dc across until ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in every dc until end of row. = 106 – 118 – 126 – 138 – 154 sts. Place two markers at the sides : - one between last st and 1st st of the row ; - one between sts 53 and 54 ; 59 and 60 ; 63 and 64 ; 69 and 70 ; 77 and 78. Try the dress on as you go. Repeat Row 5 until you reach 2 cm under the nipples. Start the decreases : Row 6 : ch 3, turn, dc2tog, dc in every dc across until 2 sts are left before the 1st marker, dc2 tog, dc2 together after the marker as well, dc in every dc until ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in every dc until there are 2 sts left before end of row, dc2 tog = 102 – 114 – 122 – 134 – 150 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 6 = 98 – 110 – 118 – 130 – 146 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 6 = 94 – 106 – 114 – 126 – 140 sts. Repeat Row 5 4 more times. Start the increases : Row 7 : ch 3, turn, dc in same st, dc in every dc until 1 dc is left before marker, dc2 in that st, dc2 in the st after the marker, dc in every dc until ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in every dc until 1 dc is left before marker, dc2 in that stitch = 98 – 110 – 118 – 130 – 146 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 7 = 102 – 114 – 122 – 134 – 150 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 7 = 106 – 118 – 126 – 138 – 154 sts. Working the length Repeat Row 5 until you reach the desired length. You can fasten off at the hips or above for a top, or continue working down for a dress. NOTE : if you make a maxi dress, you might want to work a slit on one or both sides, starting 10 cm under the knees, approximately. Finitions Crochet a border to the arm openings (= 1 row of sc with the same crochet hook, 5,00 mm). It should be approximately 57 - 69 - 77 - 89 - 105 sc in total. Sl st in 1st sc. Fasten off. Sew in the ends. Your dress is ready !

Thanks for crocheting with Paolina Angelo Designs !

Want to give a comment ? Any feedback is greatly appreciated !

FREE CROCHET PATTERN: The Runes Jacket

The Runes Jacket (Free Pattern)

 

Hi there!

Here is a free pattern I actually made a long, very long time ago. I keep using it until now, making nice jackets for myself. The construction is a basic top-down, back-and-forth raglan structure.

Runes

by Paolina Angelo Crochet

This beginner-friendly jacket is seamless and crocheted top-down, only using double crochet stitches and chains. There are no sizes provided - it is just made following your measurements, short or long depending on your wishes.

Sizes available

All sizes.

Furniture

You may use any wool or crochet hook size, but you will not get the same thickness or texture as in my project.

To make this jacket, I used:

- Zeeman Tweed (74% acrylic, 20% wool, 6% viscose; 163 m/100 g; colour Natural);

- 5,00mm crochet hook;

- 5,00mm circular knitting needles;

- a wool needle or a smaller crochet hook (to weave in the ends);

- a pair of scissors;

- 6 buttons (diameter 2,5 cm) (you may need more if you're making a longer version).

 

Measurements

Can be made in any size following this pattern.

Gauge

You may use any wool or crochet hook size, but you will not get the same thickness or texture as in my project.

To get a result as mine, gauge should be:

9 sts x 6 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (in US double crochet).

Abbreviations

ch: chain

ch sp: chain space

dc: double crochet

dc2tog: double crochet two together

k: knit

p: purl

PM: place markers

st: stitch

sts: stitches

Pattern (any size)

Yoke

With 5,00mm crochet hook and two strands of Zeeman Tweed held together:

Ch a multiple of eight (length = head circumference + 2 cm for ease).

Row 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 5^th ch from hook, dc in the next ((total number of chains/8)-2) ch, *ch 2, dc in the next following (total number of chains/4) ch*, repeat * * 2 more times (= 3 times in total), ch 2, dc in every of the remaining chains.

= same amount of dc as beginning ch + 4 ch-sp. Ch 3 (= first dc), turn.

Row 2: *dc in every dc (ch 3 counts as first dc here) until you reach the ch sp; in ch sp: dc, ch2, dc*, repeat * * 3 more times (= 4 times in total), dc in every dc until end of row. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 2, working back and forth, until piece reaches a few centimeters (3-4 approximately) under your armpits.

Armholes

Row 3: dc in every st until 1^st ch sp, dc in 1^stch sp, skip the following stitches until 2^nd ch sp, ch 8 for the armhole, dc in 2^nd ch sp, dc in every st until 3^rd ch sp, dc in 3^rd ch sp, skip the following stitches until 4^th ch sp, ch 8, dc in 4^th ch sp, dc in every st until end of row. Ch 3, turn.

You have now created your armholes.

Body

The remaining part of the body is now very simple: no increases, no decreases.

Row 4: ch 3 counts as first dc, dc in second dc, dc in every dc around. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 4 until body measures the desired length from the armholes (try it on to check). Fasten off.

Sleeves

You are now going to work on the stitches you skipped while making the armholes.

Both sleeves are worked the same way, in the round but back and forth so.

Insert your hook in 3^rd ch under armhole.

Row 1: ch 3, dc2tog, dc in every st around until only 3 sts remain, dc2tog, dc, sl st to join. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 1 until sleeve is tight enough for your wrists. If you want the sleeve loose around the wrists and forearms, take that into account.

Row 2: dc in every st around, sl st. Ch 3, turn.

When sleeve reaches the desired length, fasten off.

Neck border

With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up as many stitches as you have dc around the neck. Work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing. When border measures 5 cm, bind-off using a stretchy method.

Sleeve borders

With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up as many stitches as you have dc around the wrist. Work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing. When border measures 5 cm long, bind off using a stretchy method, and sew the border together.

Right front piece border

With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up stitches evenly (approx. 2 sts per dc) and work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing, until border measures 5 cm. Bind-off using a stretchy method.

Left front piece border (with buttonholes)

With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up stitches evenly (approx. 2 sts per dc) and work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing, until border measures 2,5 cm. PM as follows (to indicate where the buttonholes should be): on both sides at 2 cm from the top and from the bottom, and in between, approximately every 4-5 cm.

Following row: work in 2:2 ribbing. Every time you reach a marker, bind-off one st (do not use a stretchy method for buttonholes!) and continue working in 2:2 ribbing afterwards. Leave the markers in place.

Following row: work in 2:2 ribbing. Everytime you reach a marker, cast on a stitch and continue working in 2:2 ribbing afterwards.

Repeat first row until border measures 6 cm approximately.

Bind-off using a stretchy method.

Finitions

Sew the buttons on the right front part border, at the same height as your buttonholes. Weave in the ends. The Runes Jacket is now complete!