Logo on Canva
(Under construction) How to Sell Your Finished Crochet Products?
Don't forget to check my YouTube channel Paolina Angelo Crochet!
1. Etsy
Of course, it would be impossible to go into this topic without mentioning Etsy (www.etsy.com). This website is an online marketplace for handmade products.
Local art markets
Facebook Market Place
Amazon
Ebay
Second-hand apps
(Under construction) My First Beanie FREE CROCHET PATTERN (Beginner-friendly, gauge-free)
Don't forget to check my YouTube channel Paolina Angelo Crochet!
Welcome for this new pattern. This time, I'm teaching you how to make a basic and easy to make beanie, without needing any gauge, and without sizes. It means the beanie is made to measurements, actually by trying it on as you go. As a result, it can only fit you, without the hassle of looking for the right size!
Description of the project
This hat is made bottom-up, by first working a ribbed band as long as the circumference of your head and by sewing the extremities together. We then proceed to crocheting the body of the hat by picking up stitches along one side of the edge band. When the beanie is long enough, we work decreases and close the tip to make the point of the hat.
Furniture
A crochet hook of the size of your choice for the body, and a crochet hook 2mm smaller to work the edge band (in order to make it tighter).
Yarn of your choice, preferably matching the crochet hook size (but you can mismatch them if your planning to make an extremely thick or extremely light fabric).
A yarn needle.
A pair of scissors.
For the beanie in the picture, I used:
- a size 4,00 mm crochet hook for the body and 2,00 mm for the edge;
- a 100% cotton yarn (125m/50g).
Abbreviations
ch : chain
ch st : chain stitch
dc2tog : double crochet two together
dc3tog : double crochet three together
RS : right side (= side that people see when you're wearing the garment or accessory)
sc : single crochet
scbl : single crochet through the back loop
sl st : slip stitch
st : stitch
sts : stitches
Gauge
Does not matter. However, I recommend making a sample with the crochet hook size and yarn of your choice to check if the resulting fabric is not to stiff, or light, to your taste.
Edge band
With the smaller hook, ch 10 (or amount of ch sts needed to have a 4 cm long chain).
Row 1 : Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in every ch, ch 1, turn your work.
NOTE : pay attention, the ch 1 you just made does not count as first ch st of the next row!
Row 2 : scbl in every sc across, ch 1, turn your work.
Repeat row 2 until the band is long enough to go around your head at the level of your forehead.
Sew the ends together by sl st in every st across. If you use the sl st method, DO NOT cut the yarn : you can continue working the body of the hat directly. (You can also sew the end together with a needle if this is too difficult for you).
Body of the hat
After your last sl st, do not cut the yarn.
Row 1 : ch3, dc2tog in same st the chain came from, *sk 1 row of the band, dc3tog in the side of next row*, and repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the edge band, skip the last row of edge band, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
On this picture, you can see that I worked one dc3tog in the side of
every other row of the edge band I just finished making.
Row 2 : ch 3, turn work, dc2tog in 1st sp between 2 clusters (dc2tog en dc3tog), dc3tog in every space across, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
Repeat row 2 until your hat reaches approximately 3 cm above the top part of your ears when you try it on.
Next row (first decrease row) : work row 2 as normal but decrease 3x times evenly (= at three different places, evenly spread, skip one space + one dc3tog).
Repeat Row 2 and Decrease row alternately
NOTE : to be clear, you will be working on the sides
(Under construction) The Best Websites to Get Free Crochet Patterns
Don't forget to check my YouTube channel Paolina Angelo Crochet!
1. Ravelry
2. DROPS
If you're not familiar to it, this wonderful yarn brand (high quality yarn, I highly recommend) offers hundreds of free crochet and knitting pattern, translated in multiple languages. The models are all cuter than one another.
3. Yarnspirations
(Under construction) Can You Make Money with Crochet? Here's How!
Don't forget to check my YouTube channel Paolina Angelo Crochet!
Earning a living out of crochet is totally feasible. Make sure you develop different income streams to not rely on one source only. This will avoid all your work to get destroyed if suddenly, YouTube decide to demonetize your videos, or if you
1. Ads from your blog or from your YouTube channel
When you manage to bring a certain traffic to your website or YouTube channel, you will be able to monetize it and get a steady income from clicks and views on each of your pages or videos. It usually doesn't represent huge amounts of money, but if you have a lot of audience and you add advertisement revenues from different sources, it can build up and become interesting.
More information on how to attract traffic on your website or YouTube channel here.
2. Affiliate links
Affiliation is promoting products (by preference, ones you really love and use, to stay genuine to your consumers) in your articles, podcasts or videos, and posting links to purchase the product. When customers click on your links and effectively buy the product or the service using that link, you get a commission (usually a small percentage of the price of the item).
3. Finished crochet items
Many crocheters start their crochet business by selling items made by themselves, like hats or scarves. Some of them even sell whole garments, wedding accessories, wedding dresses, etc.
4. Lessons
You could start giving crochet lessons or organize local
5. Paid patterns
More information on how to sell your crochets patterns here.
General tips
Use any social media platform you can to promote yourself (TikTok, Instagram, etc.).
Know the platforms where you can sell : Etsy, Depop, Shopify, TikTok Shop
The Grand Canyon Cardigan (Free Crochet Pattern)
Description of the project
This free pattern gives the instructions to make a super cozy and warm buttoned shrug. So far, I have mostly seen shrugs without any closing system. However, while wearing them, it struck me that they kept opening and sliding off my shoulders while walking, and I felt like making one that would stay on, and that you could also buttoned up until the neck, to keep you warmer.
This shrug was inspired first by the Granny Cocoon Shrug, designed by Maria Valles. You can find the instructions to her version here.
Sizes available
One size fits most.
Furniture
- Zeeman Tweed;
- a 7,00mm crochet hook;
- a yarn needle;
- a pair of scissors;
- buttons (the number you are planning to put on your garment, nine in my case).
Gauge
Not so important for this project. Make a swatch of 10x10 cm and see if you like the texture (are you looking for a stiff and thick fabric, thick and high drape, or thin and high drape?).
However, to get a result like mine, your gauge should be:
[3 groups of 3 dc and 3 ch-sp] x 7 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm
Abbreviations used (US terminology)
ch : chain
ch-sp : chain space (= 1 ch st)
dc : double crochet
sc : single crochet
scbl : single crochet through back loop
sl st : slip stitch
st : stitch
sts : stitches
Make a granny square
Make a granny square that measures approximately 108cm wide:
Ch 4, sl st to form a ring.
Row 1: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc of the row), dc 2 in center of the ring, ch 2 (= to make the first corner of the square), dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain. Do not turn for this row.
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc of the row, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 3) in the 1st ch2-sp, *ch 1, (dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) in the coming ch2-sp*, repeat * ... * two more times, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch 3, dc2 in 1st ch1sp you come across, *ch1, (dc3, ch2, dc3) in the corner, ch 1, dc3 in next ch1sp*, repeat * to * 2 more times, ch1, (dc3, ch2, dc3) in the corner, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain.
Repeat Row 3 31 more times (= 32 times in total). (or amount of times needed to get a square of approximately
Create the armholes
Fold the square in two, right sides facing each other. Insert markers 19 cm from the folded edge (thus not from the corners of the square). Now sew the sides from the marker to the corner, to create the arm openings.
Once you have sewn the sides, your project should look like this:
Turn your cardigan right side out, and put the seams facing each other. The project now looks like this:
Crochet the armholes border
Take a crochet 2mm smaller than the one you are using. In my case, I am using the 7,00mm - which means I will be using the 5,00mm for the border.
Insert your hook at the seam of the armholes.
Ch 5.
Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in every ch until end = 4 sc, sl st in 2 next sts (around the edge of the armhole). Turn your work around.
Scbl in every of the 4 sc you just made, ch 1, turn your work.
Scbl in every of the 4 sc you just made, sl st in 2 next sts of the edge of the armhole.
When you have reached the last stitches of the border of the arm opening, join end and beginning of the ribbed edge by sl st in the back loop of both sc sts (= a slip stitch that goes through the first sc of the end of the border, and through the first sc of the beginning of the border, and progressing so by joining the matching sc). Fasten off, cut the yarn.
Crochet the front border
Once again with a crochet hook 2,00mm smaller than the one you used to crochet the body of the garment (so 5,00mm in my case).
Place markers to locate the place where the buttons will be. You may decide to put only one button, or several ones. In my case, I want a cardigan that I can button up and down, so I will place nine markers.
Attach your yarn to the seam on the right sight on the garment (where you see the white marker on the picture here above, in the middle).
Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 5 ch = 6 sc.
Sl st in next two sts from the edge of the body (the same way we did for the armholes borders, see here above). Turn work.
Scbl in every sc of the border = 6 sc. Ch 1, turn your work, scbl in every sc across = 6 sc. Sl st in next 2 sts of the edge of the body.
Continue the same process until you reach the first marker of the left side (which shows here on the right of the picture, the green marker on the top). At that point, create a buttonhole:
Scbl 2, ch 2, sk 2 sc, scbl 2.The row after will be:
Scbl in first two sc, sc 2 in ch2sp, scbl in last 2 sc.
Then continue working the simple ribbed edge until you reach the next marker, and create the second buttonhole using the same method.
Close the border like you did when making the armholes borders.
Finitions
Remove the markers. Weave in the ends. Sew the buttons.
There you go! (Couldn't wait to weave in the ends before posting the pattern, hehe)
Thank you for crocheting with Paolina Angelo Crochet Designs!
The Tamale Dress (Free Crochet Pattern)
The Tamale Dress is worked top-down.
First, work front and back separately, join them and continue working in the round until the dress reaches the desired length. The length of this project can be adapted easily, which means you can make a short or a long top, a short or a maxi dress, to taste !
***
This pattern is offered for free but you can buy a printable PDF version here.
***
|
Furniture
Crochet 5,00mm 100% (recycled) cotton yarn (153m/100g), approximately 400g for a size M Scissors
|
Gauge
13 dc x 8 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm. |
|
Abbreviations and stitches used (US terminology)
ch : chain ch-sp : chain-space dc : double crochet PM : place a marker RS : right side (= size of the work that is visible to the eye when you are wearing it) sk : skip sl st : slip stitch st : stitch |
Notes
dc decrease : yo, pull 1 loop through the stitch, yo, pull 1 loop through next st, yo, pull through all 3 loops on the hook.
dc increase : dc2 in the same st |
Guide of the sizes Paolina Angelo
|
|
34/36
S
(cm) |
38/40
M
(cm) |
42/44
L
(cm) |
46/48
XL
(cm) |
50/52
XXL
(cm) |
|
Breast circumference |
82 |
90 |
98 |
106 |
118 |
|
Waist circumference |
66 |
72 |
80 |
88 |
100 |
|
Hip circumference |
92 |
98 |
104 |
112 |
122 |
Actual measurements of the garment
|
Let's get started!
Front part Ch 34. Row 1 : dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in every ch until end of the row. = 31 dc. Row 2 : ch 4 (= 1st dc and ch1), turn your work, sk 1 dc, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st*, repeat * * until 1 st is left, dc in last st. = 31 sts = 15 ch-sp. PM in the central ch-sp (= 8th ch-sp of the row). Row 3 : ch 3, turn, dc in same 1st st (= first dc increase), dc in every dc and every ch-sp until you reach the ch-sp with the marker, ch, sk the ch of that ch-sp, dc in every dc and ch-sp until 1 st is left, dc 2 in last st. = 33 sts. Row 4 : ch 3, turn, dc in same 1st st (= first dc increase), dc in every dc until the ch-sp, ch 1, sk ch of the ch-sp, dc in every dc of the row until 1 st is left, dc 2 in last dc. = 35 sts.
Repeat Row 4 9 – 12 – 14 – 17 – 21 more times, until the piece is 41 – 45 – 49 – 53 – 59 cm wide = 53 - 59 - 63 - 69 – 77 sts.
DO NOT CUT THE YARN - we will use it to attach back and front parts together.
Back part
Ch 34. Row 1 : dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in every ch until end of the row. = 31 dc. Row 2 : ch 4 (= 1st dc and ch1), turn your work, sk 1 dc, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st*, repeat * * until 1 st is left, dc in last st. = 31 sts. Row 3 : ch 3, turn, dc in same 1st st (= first dc increase), dc in every dc and ch-sp until 1 st is left, dc 2 in last st. = 33 sts.
Repeat Row 3 10 – 13 – 15 – 18 – 22 more times, until the piece is 41 – 45 – 49 – 53 – 59 cm wide = 53 - 59 - 63 - 69 – 77 sts. Cut the yarn, fasten off.
Joining front and back part
When you finish the last increase row (row 3) adapted to the size you're making, lay both pieces (front and back part) on the table, RS facing you. Your yarn comes front the left bottom extremity of the front part – don't cut it. Sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain of the last row (on the right extremity of back part). You have just attached the two parts together.
Ch 3, turn, dc in every dc across, until you reach the ch-sp, ch 1, sk ch of the ch-sp, dc in every dc across.
When you reach the end of the row (= other extremity of the front part), attach the two pieces together again like so : don't work last dc, ch 3 (counts as last dc of the row), sl st in 3rd ch of the beginning ch of previous row – at the same time, with the same sl st, take the 1st st of extremity of row of other part.
Shaping the neck
You shape the neck before working further on the dress, because the next step requires you to try the dress on to know at which height you should start decreasing for the waist.
With RS facing you, attach your yarn to the right extremity of 1st row of back part. Ch 1, sc in 1st st and PM in that 1st sc you just made, sc in every st across. When you reach the end of the row, ch 5 loosely. Take the front part, still RS facing you, and sc in every st across until end of row. Then ch 5 again, and join in a circle by sl st in 1st sc with the marker.
DO NOT TURN YOUR WORK. Ch 1, sc in 1st st (still the one with the marker), sc in every sc across, sl st in sc with the marker. Cut your yarn and fasten off.
Shaping the waist
Take back your work where you left it after joining front and back part. You just finished a row.
Row 5 : ch 3, turn, dc in every dc across until ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in every dc until end of row. = 106 – 118 – 126 – 138 – 154 sts.
Place two markers at the sides : - one between last st and 1st st of the row ; - one between sts 53 and 54 ; 59 and 60 ; 63 and 64 ; 69 and 70 ; 77 and 78.
Try the dress on as you go. Repeat Row 5 until you reach 2 cm under the nipples.
Start the decreases :
Row 6 : ch 3, turn, dc2tog, dc in every dc across until 2 sts are left before the 1st marker, dc2 tog, dc2 together after the marker as well, dc in every dc until ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in every dc until there are 2 sts left before end of row, dc2 tog = 102 – 114 – 122 – 134 – 150 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 6 = 98 – 110 – 118 – 130 – 146 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 6 = 94 – 106 – 114 – 126 – 140 sts. Repeat Row 5 4 more times.
Start the increases :
Row 7 : ch 3, turn, dc in same st, dc in every dc until 1 dc is left before marker, dc2 in that st, dc2 in the st after the marker, dc in every dc until ch-sp, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in every dc until 1 dc is left before marker, dc2 in that stitch = 98 – 110 – 118 – 130 – 146 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 7 = 102 – 114 – 122 – 134 – 150 sts. Repeat Row 5. Repeat Row 7 = 106 – 118 – 126 – 138 – 154 sts.
Working the length
Repeat Row 5 until you reach the desired length. You can fasten off at the hips or above for a top, or continue working down for a dress.
NOTE : if you make a maxi dress, you might want to work a slit on one or both sides, starting 10 cm under the knees, approximately.
Finitions
Crochet a border to the arm openings (= 1 row of sc with the same crochet hook, 5,00 mm). It should be approximately 57 - 69 - 77 - 89 - 105 sc in total. Sl st in 1st sc. Fasten off. Sew in the ends. Your dress is ready ! |
Thanks for crocheting with Paolina Angelo Designs !
Want to give a comment ? Any feedback is greatly appreciated !
FREE CROCHET PATTERN: The Runes Jacket
The Runes Jacket (Free Pattern)
Hi there!
Here is a free pattern I actually made a long, very long time ago. I keep using it until now, making nice jackets for myself. The construction is a basic top-down, back-and-forth raglan structure.
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Runes
by Paolina Angelo Crochet
This beginner-friendly jacket is seamless and crocheted top-down, only using double crochet stitches and chains. There are no sizes provided - it is just made following your measurements, short or long depending on your wishes.
|
Sizes available |
All sizes.
|
Furniture |
You may use any wool or crochet hook size, but you will not get the same thickness or texture as in my project.
To make this jacket, I used:
- Zeeman Tweed (74% acrylic, 20% wool, 6% viscose; 163 m/100 g; colour Natural);
- 5,00mm crochet hook;
- 5,00mm circular knitting needles;
- a wool needle or a smaller crochet hook (to weave in the ends);
- a pair of scissors;
- 6 buttons (diameter 2,5 cm) (you may need more if you're making a longer version).
|
Measurements |
Can be made in any size following this pattern.
|
Gauge |
You may use any wool or crochet hook size, but you will not get the same thickness or texture as in my project.
To get a result as mine, gauge should be:
9 sts x 6 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (in US double crochet).
|
Abbreviations |
ch: chain
ch sp: chain space
dc: double crochet
dc2tog: double crochet two together
k: knit
p: purl
PM: place markers
st: stitch
sts: stitches
|
Pattern (any size) |
Yoke
With 5,00mm crochet hook and two strands of Zeeman Tweed held together:
Ch a multiple of eight (length = head circumference + 2 cm for ease).
Row 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 5th ch from hook, dc in the next ((total number of chains/8)-2) ch, *ch 2, dc in the next following (total number of chains/4) ch*, repeat * * 2 more times (= 3 times in total), ch 2, dc in every of the remaining chains.
= same amount of dc as beginning ch + 4 ch-sp. Ch 3 (= first dc), turn.
Row 2: *dc in every dc (ch 3 counts as first dc here) until you reach the ch sp; in ch sp: dc, ch2, dc*, repeat * * 3 more times (= 4 times in total), dc in every dc until end of row. Ch 3, turn.
Repeat row 2, working back and forth, until piece reaches a few centimeters (3-4 approximately) under your armpits.
Armholes
Row 3: dc in every st until 1st ch sp, dc in 1stch sp, skip the following stitches until 2nd ch sp, ch 8 for the armhole, dc in 2nd ch sp, dc in every st until 3rd ch sp, dc in 3rd ch sp, skip the following stitches until 4th ch sp, ch 8, dc in 4th ch sp, dc in every st until end of row. Ch 3, turn.
You have now created your armholes.
Body
The remaining part of the body is now very simple: no increases, no decreases.
Row 4: ch 3 counts as first dc, dc in second dc, dc in every dc around. Ch 3, turn.
Repeat row 4 until body measures the desired length from the armholes (try it on to check). Fasten off.
Sleeves
You are now going to work on the stitches you skipped while making the armholes.
Both sleeves are worked the same way, in the round but back and forth so.
Insert your hook in 3rd ch under armhole.
Row 1: ch 3, dc2tog, dc in every st around until only 3 sts remain, dc2tog, dc, sl st to join. Ch 3, turn.
Repeat row 1 until sleeve is tight enough for your wrists. If you want the sleeve loose around the wrists and forearms, take that into account.
Row 2: dc in every st around, sl st. Ch 3, turn.
When sleeve reaches the desired length, fasten off.
Neck border
With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up as many stitches as you have dc around the neck. Work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing. When border measures 5 cm, bind-off using a stretchy method.
Sleeve borders
With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up as many stitches as you have dc around the wrist. Work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing. When border measures 5 cm long, bind off using a stretchy method, and sew the border together.
Right front piece border
With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up stitches evenly (approx. 2 sts per dc) and work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing, until border measures 5 cm. Bind-off using a stretchy method.
Left front piece border (with buttonholes)
With 5,00mm circular knitting needles, pick up stitches evenly (approx. 2 sts per dc) and work back and forth in 2:2 ribbing, until border measures 2,5 cm. PM as follows (to indicate where the buttonholes should be): on both sides at 2 cm from the top and from the bottom, and in between, approximately every 4-5 cm.
Following row: work in 2:2 ribbing. Every time you reach a marker, bind-off one st (do not use a stretchy method for buttonholes!) and continue working in 2:2 ribbing afterwards. Leave the markers in place.
Following row: work in 2:2 ribbing. Everytime you reach a marker, cast on a stitch and continue working in 2:2 ribbing afterwards.
Repeat first row until border measures 6 cm approximately.
Bind-off using a stretchy method.
Finitions
Sew the buttons on the right front part border, at the same height as your buttonholes. Weave in the ends. The Runes Jacket is now complete!
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